To Ashley Stephenson; Your commitment to menswear and to the creatives inside the space is a special type of energy that brought us closer as friends.
As I write this book - I am reminded of your ability as a master connector with a warm heart who made everyone around her smile. You are missed.
Rest in Fashion.
UPTOWN
(styling without clothes)
MANNERISMS
Picture this: you are getting set to arrive at your first date with someone you met online. You are wearing a two-piece suit with a turtleneck and Chelsea boots. You are taking the New York City subway to a french bistro for reservation at 8pm. There is already a lot on your mind in terms of how you will engage with your date later that evening.
I want to be the first to tell you that the date started the moment you got out the shower. The type of energy you emit into your vicinity will be the same energy that will be given off to others when you leave your dwelling. Behavior and mannerisms are extracurricular aspects of style. It is in many ways an extra appendage that is not always visible. This extra body part is also subject to judgment, energies, moods and conversation.
Let's get back to the train station. Perhaps it is a September evening and you choose not to wear a coat or a jacket over your suit
- which is fine. However, you must provide protection for your suit until you reach the date location. In other words, the way you maneuver - in addition to your mannerisms - will determine how you and your suit will arrive.
First thing is first - when dressing in a suit, there is a particular elegance that is assumed from those around you. Whether they deserve it or not, is not your concern. Opening doors, preventing an elevator from closing, allowing others to pass in front of you when they seem to be in a rush are all parts of style. Here are a few areas to be aware of: perhaps removing yourself from a seat and allowing an elderly person, pregnant woman or a young lady who looks tired from work to have a seat are all gestures of great style.
When you reach the date earlier than she does - do you ask to take her jacket? Do you allow her to walk in front of you to your reserved table? Do you pull out her seat instead of allowing the host to do so? Lastly, do you hand the menu over to allow her to read it first? In Essence, it is the gesture of individual independence and a showcase of humility and respect that needs to be translated. Ironically, your outfit has now jumped 10 levels in just 10 minutes.
Similarly, be sure to tuck your phone away (never in a front pant pocket) or place it face down on the table as a sign of communication and respect. In addition to keeping your elbows off the table as much as you can, be sure to pay close attention to dialogue. As much as this seems incredibly basic, you would be humbly surprised at the amount of men who do not have a clue of where and when to show manners - especially those that are exclusive to intimate dating and chivalry. It is ultimately a sign of self-awareness and self-confidence in your ability to spread good energy to those that you come across.
GROOMING
An outfit can be totally ruined by the appearance of dishevelment and the sloppy presentation of self. Grooming refers to the parts of the "up-kept" in menswear that do not necessarily involve clothing but rather are the visible (and most times not so visible) parts of the human body that should be looked after. It is also important to note that grooming in menswear can be incredibly
subjective based off of a variety of factors such as identity, religion, and self-preference. This is by no means a guide that is directing all men to a one specific look. However, it is important to note that certain hygienic practices are considered non-negotiable - such as body cleansing - otherwise known as showering.
Bathing and showering not only allow for the freshness of clothes to perform at its best level, but it also eliminates the possibility of bad body odor: simply put, body odor can be considered offensive to other people that you engage with. There is a clear distinction between deliberate avoiding cleanliness versus the types of definitions of being clean. Deliberate forms of aggressive and direct body odor offense is one of the several areas of bad grooming. In no particular order, here are a few:
The lack of oral care that produces bad breath.
The lack of body washing which produces body odor.
The constant use of particular clothing without the proper clothing care which produces clothing order on top of body order.
Here are some basic tips to help avoid or help with these grooming disasters:
Brushing your teeth at least once a day and flossing are paramount to maintaining good oral health. If you are able to brush after every meal particularly before bedtime - you will be good shape. A good way to practice good oral health is by carrying a travel size toothbrush and toothpaste in your travel bag. You may handle your business at the same time you wash your hands. Bad body odor develops from the body's production of excess sweat - either from rigorous activity or from genetically biological imbalances within the body. Be that as it may, there are always ways to combat this by finding a pH balanced soap and/or deodorant that compliments your body. Most men use strong scented body soaps to match the intensity of their active lifestyle
- whereas others may not reach for a strongly, scented body cleanser and would rather go for something much lighter. Whichever you choose - be mindful of the strength of the scent and how it performs for you by the end of the day.
Different clothes will give off different scents in relation to its fabric and how it mixes with your pheromones. One to three wears is the maximum amount of time an outfit should be repeated before it needs a laundry wash or a dry clean visit
VOCABULARY
Although style is a visual aesthetic, sonically - words add emphasis to already stand out looks.
Styling vocabulary is also a form of styling aesthetics. They go hand-in-hand, in particular when describing a look.
Nomenclature becomes incredibly important in order to convey and/or share styling inspirations and references to those you engage with.
Colloquially, certain words in the style vocabulary are widely used, but most times out of context.
Here are a few words that are notoriously used in menswear (style) vocabulary and aesthetics
- and their meanings.
Fresh is used to indicate a cool or out of the box look.
Solid is used to identify a look that is well put together, but perhaps seen before
Clean, sharp and Dapper are synonyms that are used to described a formal style that incorporates a sense of creativity and individuality.
Layers is a term used to describe clothing that is worn in addition to other clothing on the same person. However, these layers must be proportionate to one another and compliment in size.
A fitted look is not a skinny look, but rather a look that is tapered to the body proportion of the person wearing it.
Baggy and Boxy are two separate definitions with the former used to describe a street style look that incorporates oversize clothing without struc-ture. A boxy look utilizes structure in its appearance and maintains silhouette.
It is also important to note that the word nice is often frowned upon in sartorial Menswear. It shows that a person has a difficult time describing the foundations of a look. However, when in doubt - always describe a look based off of its color, fabrication and silhouette (shape).
COMMUNICATION
Styling aesthetic is the most powerful form of nonverbal communication that we have as humans. Simply put: What does your clothes say about you? Color, shape and fabric are all notable types of communicating factors that describe the personality of the individual who wears the clothing. With respect to color: lighter and cool colors are often worn to showcase different forms of faith, youth, laughter, joy, in addition to good energy and mood. Warm and earth-tone colors often symbolize those who may be in a more professional setting - and give a bit more tailored attention to their overall look. For instance, one would hardly ever wear a yellow or an all white suit to a job interview or even to a formal dinner.
The colors in nature that we often see reflect the seasons and its effect on people. The summer often reminds you of yellow, fun, happiness and joy. Greens, and browns makes you think of going back to school, leaves on the ground, graduations, work promotions and family gatherings.
Structurally, oversized, and extremely baggy clothes can give off a sloppy mood or personality from an individual, especially when dealing with trousers. Oversized trousers that do not fit the body are often a pure indicator of a man who has not learned his true size and refuses to acknowledge it. When in doubt, you may go a size up or down to maintain a healthy body balance, especially if you change in weight from season to season.
Fabrications such as leather and cashmere often communicate a sense of opulence, respect and success. Similar to how satin lapel's on a tuxedo jacket communicate celebration and decadence.
If you are somewhere between these fabrications - then quality cotton and all other natural non-synthetic fabrics are best choices.
THE BLACK DANDY
Historically in America, the Black man has been subjected to unthinkable bodily harm and systematic injustices - which have shaped their view on the world. The Transatlantic Slave Trade produced Black servants living in the South who were subjugated to inhumane treatments.
Harsh living conditions and dismantled futures created existential crises in which Black men faced - which also forced them to create alternate universes to help cope with their current conditions.
Their clothings were often modified in order to successfully run away from the plantation.
The Black Dandy was born out of an alternate version of clothing passed down from slave owner to slave and used as a tool to imagine individualism and freedom.
The suit - born out of 19th century England is perhaps the best example widely seen with versatility by Black people. Styling variations of these garments were injected with attitude, culture and poise - which was also used to transcend and combat racism, clas-sism, and gender biases.
Simply put - the Black man (and woman) introduced style as we know it to the world. Often neglected and removed from the history books, the current geopolitical and cultural climate has began to shine more light and recognize the contributions that The Black Dandy has made to style - which in turn gave birth to to fashion style, design and brand aesthetics. We thank you.
